Sunday, May 3, 2009

Review: Bell & Ross BR-02 Diver, 1000M

I have just acquired a beautiful Bell & Ross BR-02 Blue Pro-dial diving watch from friend on Watch-U-Seek in a face-to-face transaction and I must say...it is worth every penny (and believe me, many of them went into this baby).

Specifications

Manufacturer: Bell & Ross
Model: BR-02 Blue Pro Dial
Edition: limited to 500 pieces annual production
Functions: hour, minute, second, date
Water resistance: 1,000M/101.5 Bar
Diving functions: unidirectional internal rotating bezel, helium decompression valve
Aviation functions: N/A
Finish: surgical stainless steel 316L with black PVD treatment
Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire, domed
Movement: Sellita SW200 (based on the ETA-2824), adjusted in 4 positions, -0/+10 second/day
Diameter: 44mm
Band: rubber diving strap and synthetic fabric strap
Photoluminescence: SuperLuminova Light Blue
MSRP: $5,400
Grey-market average: $4,200 (22% discount)



Brand

Bell & Ross is founded in 1993 by Bruno Belamich and Carlos A. Rosillo, two French designers who over the years created a series of watches that are functionally and aesthetically derivative of professional time instruments. The company consults many aviation, deep-sea diving, and military professionals to create wrist machines combining style and utility into one elegant package. Up until 2002, B&R watches were produced by Sinn, and the German DNA is clearly evident in many of B&R's designs today (especially in their classic line of watches).



There are four lines in Bell & Ross's current portfolio:
1) Instrument - the most recognizable and flagship of B&R's designs
2) Classic - standard, dress watches, with hints of Sinn DNA
3) Vintage - retro-stylish collection recalling memorable watch designs of the past
4) Professional - a series of automatic and quartz watches suited for heavy-duty field usage

Model

The BR-02 is the first diver in the instrument collection, featuring water resistence up to 1,000 meters. The Blue Pro Dial edition I have is limited to a production quota of 500 pieces per year, making it rather difficult to come by at an authorized dealer (in fact, most ADs currently are stocked out of the blue and orange limited production versions and have extensive waitlists for next year's production batch).



Packaging

The rugged, no-monkey-business Pelican case bearing a "Bell & Ross" name plate gives the first indication of the BR-02 diver as a rugged and professional timepiece. The case is under Pelican's lifetime guarantee of "you break it, we replace it...forever!" motto (more about Pelican cases, which are great safekeeping tools for your watch collections, here at the Pelican website).



Once you snap open the case, you will be greeted with several items: the Bell & Ross BR-02 product manual, which details operations and technical details in several languages; a B&R strap-changing spring bar tool; a velcro strap to use in place of the originally attached rubber strap; and, of course, the beautiful BR-02 instrument staring you in the eyes with a sharp yet amicable blue hue radiating from its 44mm dial.





Movement

The movement, in my opinion, is the BR-02's only shortfall for its price tag: at $5,400 MSRP, I had expected at least an adjusted ETA movement that runs closer to COSC. The BR-02 utilizes a Sellita SW200 movement, which is essentially a clone of the ETA-2824, adjusted in 4 places to run at -0/+10 seconds per day. (I believe B&R chose Sellita in the BR-02 because ETA will seize supplying movements to external watchmakers outside the Swatch group in 2010 and with the BR-02 being a relatively young product line, it is in their best interest to use a movement they can continue using for the next few years.) In my personal experiment, my specific piece ran on average -0/+7 versus the government clock. Hopefully in the future, B&R will begin integrating in-house movements into their timepieces, should they follow up on their claim to become the next Rolex or Panerai.

Style/Finish

From a stylistic standpoint, there are very few flaws I can find with the BR-02. The contour of the watch is extremely well-polished and, despite being a 44mm diameter monster with >50mm lugs, the BR-02 sits comfortably and becomingly on the wrist thanks to the measured curvature formed between its crystal, case, and strap. I highly recommend the PVD versions of these pieces, as the black steel enhancement adds not only stylistic flair that make the bright color of the dial pop up but also an extra layer of defense against physical abuse, as PVD steel is much more resistent to scratches and corrosion.





Peripheral View


The blue dial edition of the BR-02 is a non-chronograph and has relatively simple side views. On the left, you see the traditional one-crown operation with most ETA-2892 powered pieces, which are screwed down to maximize water resistance. On top of the main crown is a second crown that is also screwed down and allows for operation of the rotating bezel, which is used by divers to measure remaining oxygen levels in their tanks.



(quick note of operation: to operate the bezel, point the triangular marker against the minute hand of the watch prior to diving. The bezel number opposite to the minute hand within the hour will indicate the time elapsed during the dive, and divers should take caution when this number approaches their oxygen threshold in the tank.)



On the other side of the periphery, you will find the helium escape valve built in to the piece. While the valve is manually operated on some divers such as the Omega Seamasters, this valve operates automatically (in similar fashion to Rolex Submariners) and allows for small helium particles to escape the chassis of the watch when rapid descent/ascent during diving leads to high pressure differentials in the watch. Read more here.



Lume

It would be criminal not to include a photo of the lume on the BR-02. I am not sure what other variations of the BR-02 use in terms of their lume color, but the shade of blue on my version really stands out and provides excellent readability at night - hell, this thing glows like a lantern in the dark!



Straps

The BR-02 comes with two straps: a rubber diving strap made of very high-quality material and sits very comfortably on the wrist, as well as a synthetic fabric strap designed for underwater use. Both look very stylish on the wrist, though I am biased towards the rubber strap because the curvature extends the elegant shape of the watch case and sapphire crystal. The two bands can be easily interchanged via the enclosed strap-changing tool. One of the more frustrating aspects of owning a BR-02, as opposed to the BR-01 or BR-03, is the lack of availability of aftermarket straps for these beautiful instruments. I recommend The StrapSmith if you are willing to spend up to $200 for a custom-made leather strap for your BR-02 (and you should, as he makes some of the highest quality and most elegant aftermarket Panerai and Bell & Ross straps I have ever seen).

Verdict

The BR-02 Blue Pro Dial is one of the most seamless integrations of elegance and utility I have ever seen. Every visual aspect of this timepiece pleases the eye, and I cannot wait to test it out on my next trip to the tropics. More pictures and updates to follow - for now, enjoy the review and please contact me for any advice and additional details/photos if you are considering purchasing one of these beauties! (Link to the official Bell & Ross site can be found on the right side of the blog).

Pros
+high fashion, elegant design; extremely distinctive conversation piece
+rugged construction, flawless worksmanship
+beautiful complement of the blue markers against the all-black dial and case
+An interesting alternative or complement to the BR-01 and BR-03 lines

Cons
-weak movement for a high price point
-lack of strap options in the secondary market